백동현 Dong-hyun Paik , 이현석 Hyunsuk Lee , 강래형 Rae-hyoung Gang , 김용진 Yong-jin Kim , 이존환 John Hwan Lee , 최성욱 Sung-wook Choi

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Abstract

Highly porous polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) microspheres impregnated by TiO₂ powder were prepared by spray drying method. The particle size and the porosity were controlled by optimizing the co-solvent ratio and the polymer concentration. TiO₂ powder was impregnated into the microspheres upto 74.6 wt% content based on the weight of the resultant PMMA/TiO₂ microspheres. SEM images showed that TiO₂ powder was well distributed throughout the inside of the microsphere. EDX mapping showed that the Ti signal was well detected from every part of the microspheres, which was the evidence of the formation of the PMMA/TiO₂ composite. Hg porosimetry result showed that the porosity was found to be over 50% regardless of the TiO₂ contents. The final product was found to have high oil-absorbing capacity and great hiding power, both of which are key properties in designing the microsphere materials for make-up cosmetics application.

Key Words

spray drying, PMMA, TiO₂, microsphere, make-up

김수지 Su Ji Kim , 정유리 You Lee Jeong , 남진주 Jin Ju Nam , 장지희 Ji Hui Jang , 여혜림 Hye Lim Yeo , 윤명석 Moung Seok Yoon , 유권종 Kweon Jong Yoo , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee

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Abstract

Micelles, which are called solubilization formulation, have been widely used in skin lotion, mist or various formulations for the purpose of solubilizing the fragrance rather than the role of the active ingredient carrier because the particles are very small. In this study, we developed the swollen micelle having a transparent appearance to deliver β-sitosterol. When preparing the swollen micelle, solubility parameter was considered with active ingredient. This method allowed insoluble active ingredient to be safely entrapped inside the micelles. Stability of micelle was evaluated by dynamic light scattering (DLS). The transparency and shape of the micelles were confirmed by cryo-TEM. In addition, through the thermal analysis using DSC, β-sitosterol was found to be stably present in the swollen micelles. These results indicate that swollen micelles considered solubility parameter could be used as a new carrier for the insoluble active ingredients.

Key Words

solubilization, solubility parameter, swollen micelle, β-sitosterol

인소현 So Hyun In , 조환일 Hwanil Cho , 강내규 Nae Gyu Kang , 한종섭 Jong Sup Han , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 이천구 Cheon Koo Lee

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Abstract

Water-in-oil emulsions including water-in-ester oil and water-in-silicone oil (W/O+S) have various advantages such as blocking moisture evaporation and forming air permeable membrane. However, their applications have been limited due to the poor stability under low viscosity condition. In this study, we investigated the effect of synergistic interaction between nonionic surfactant, micro-size particles and cationic surfactant on the stability of W/O+S formulation. The stability of W/O+S emulsions was changed as a function of cationic surfactant concentration where it increased at lower concentration and then started to decrease above a critical point. Finally, emulsion phase inversion occurred at a high concentration. The results suggest that W/O+S emulsions of low viscosity ranging from 2000 to 5000 cps can be stabilized under the conditions where a nonionic surfactant, micro-size particles and a cationic surfactant are used in the range of 1.0 ∼ 4.0 wt%, 2.5 wt% and 0.1 ∼ 0.5 wt%, respectively.

Key Words

W/O emulsion, W/S emulsion, surfactant, particle, synergistic interaction

조완구 Wan Goo Cho

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Abstract

RS White (resorcinol bis-ethylhexanoate) is used in cosmetics as a skin whitening agent. In this study, we studied the possibility of nano-emulsion formation containing whitening agent, RS White, with different types of emulsifying agents. With Tween 80, 60, HCO 60 and 40 as a hydrophilic surfactants and Span 80 as ahydrophilic surfactant, nano-emulsions were formed at appropriate concentrations, but they were not formed in the system using the Myrj 52, Montanov L, and Tegocare 450 with Span 80. The diameter of nano-emulsion sphere was smaller than 100 nm. The emulsion showed a translucent appearance and maintained stability in stability evaluation with time. In vitro skin permeation experiments showed that amounts of skin permeated nano-emulsion for 24 h were 70.84 μg/㎠ and those of O/W emulsion were 28.97 μg/㎠. In conclusion, a stable nano-emulsion containing the resorcinol bis-ethylhexanoate is effective for potential efficacy system as an efficient delivery system of the functional materials into skin.

Key Words

nano-emulsion, resorcinol bis-ethylhexanoate, emulsifier, absorption, PIC

황형서 Hyung Seo Hwang , 유대성 Dae Sung Yoo , 심중현 Joong Hyun Shim

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Abstract

This research was carried out to identify the whitening effect of Banana leaf extract. B16F10 cells were used to measure cell viability, mRNA expression, and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay from B16F10 cell. We also carried out clinical test of the cream product containing banana leaf extract. In this study, we elucidated the effects of banana leaf extract on TRP1 / TRP2 / Tyr mRNA expression and tyrosinase activity inhibition. Quantitative real-time PCR showed that banana leaf extract decreased mRNA level of TRP1, TRP2 and Tyr gene and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay also revealed that banana leaf extract 65% decreased melanin production in B16F10 cell. Banana leaf extract cream can whiten the skin darkness induced by ultraviolet. Therefore, we successfully identified the whitening effect of banana leaf extract, and this finding suggested the banana leaf extract is a considerable potent cosmetic ingredient for skin whitening. Based on this, we anticipated further researches about banana leaf extract for mechanism to develop not only cosmetics but healthcare food or medicines.

Key Words

banana leaf, ultraviolet, whitening, TRP1, TRP2, tyrosinase

조아라 A Ra Cho , 김수지 Su Ji Kim , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee , 심건영 Geon Young Sim , 백민 Min Back , 조은슬 Eun Seul Cho , 장지희 Ji Hui Jang , 장은선 Eunseon Jang , 김연준 Youn Joon Kim , 유권종 Kweon Jong Yoo , 한정우 Jeong Woo Han

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Abstract

Light shows various optical behaviors such as reflection, absorption, and scattering on skin for individuals. In particular, reflection of light from the skin has been widely used as the brightness index of the skin of individuals through the measurement of the physical quantity of spectral reflectance. Therefore, the study of light behavior on skin would be useful for the preparation of new evaluation method in the development stage of make-up products. In this study, multi-dimensional analysis for spectral reflectance behavior of light on individual skin was performed using Kubelka-Munk model. Also, we analyzed the contribution of skin parameters such as skin thickness and hemoglobin, which could affect the spectral reflectance, using above model and literature information. Base on this, we calculated the theoretical reflectance of normal women for visual light, which showed good agreement with the measured reflectance. Our study of light propagation in skin based on Kubelka-Munk model provides useful insight for the development of personalized cosmetic in the near future.

Key Words

Kubelka-Munk theory, skin optics, reflectance of skin tissue, cosmetics

주지혜 Ji-hye Joo , 석지현 Ji Hyun Seok , 홍인기 In-kee Hong , 김남경 Nam Kyoung Kim , 최은미 Eunmi Choi

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Abstract

Just like UV radiation, heat increases collagen degradation and accumulation of abnormal elastin fiber and this is termed thermal skin aging. Dunaliella salina (DS), a green alga, is known for its beta-carotene accumulation, having various applications in the health and nutritional products. However, the effects of DS on heat-induced skin aging remain unexplored. In this study, we performed anti-thermal aging tests of the ethanol extract of DS (DSE). We measured the cellular levels of type I procollagen and MMP-1 using ELISA in human dermal fibroblast cells after heat shock. DSE reduced the expression of MMP-1 protein and increased the expression of type I procollagen. In addition, DSE upregulated the mRNA expression of HSP47 reduced by heat shock, which is involved in collagen synthesis. Also, DSE reduced the expression of inflammation mediator (TGF-β, IL-12, etc). We demonstrate that DSE regulates the heat-induced solar elastosis through the regulation of tropoelastin and fibrillin-1, two major proteins of elastic fibers, and MMP-12 expression. These results suggest that DSE may be effective for preventing thermally induced skin aging.

Key Words

Dunaliella salina, thermal aging, heat shock, type I procollagen, solar elastosis

최종근 Jongkeun Choi

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Abstract

Korea Food and Drug Administration (KFDA) has officially announced 2,4-dinitrophenylhydrazine (DNPH) derivatization － high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) methods for analysis of formaldehyde. This study was conducted to develop a convenient derivatization method for cosmetics by improving complex pre-treatment procedures included in KFDA method. To simplify pre-treatment procedures of KFDA method, reaction conditions including pH, time and temperature were optimized. This pre-treatment method does not require complicate pre-treatment steps of KFDA method such as pH adjustment of test solution with acetate buffer (pH 5.0), solvent-solvent partitioning with dichloromethane and concentrating procedure with vacuum evaporator. Formaldehyde-dinitrophenylhydrazone (formaldehyde-DNP) product produced by derivatization reaction was separated and quantified with a reversed-phase HPLC, which was slightly modified with KFDA method. The linearity test showed good results with 0.9999 of correlation coefficient (r2) in the range of 2 ∼ 40 ppm of standard solutions. In this method, limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantitation (LOQ) values for formaldehyde were 0.2 ppm and 0.5 ppm, respectively. In addition, recovery test demonstrated that the method was also accurate and reproducible. Therefore, the proposed method can be applicable to rapid analysis of formaldehyde in cosmetics.

Key Words

cosmetic, 2,4-dinitrophenylhydrazine, DNPH, formaldehyde, pre-column derivatization, HPLC

권순우 Soon Woo Kwon , 고현주 Hyun Ju Ko , 배준태 Jun Tae Bae , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

Pectin, a naturally occurring polysaccharide, has in recent years attracted considerable attention. Its benefits are increasingly appreciated by scientists and consumers due to its safety and usefulness. The chemistry and gel-forming characteristics of pectin have enabled to be used in pharmaceutical industry, health promotion and treatment. Yet, it has been rarely used in cosmetics because of its incompatibility with many cosmetic ingredients, including alcohols, and unstable viscosity of pectin gels under various pH and salt conditions. However, low-molecular-weight pectin oligomers have excellent biological activities, and depolymerization of pectin to produce cosmetic ingredients would be very useful. In this study, we attempted the development of cosmetic ingredients using pectin with an excellent effect on human skin. We developed a bio-conversion process that uses enzymatic hydrolysis to produce pectin hydrolysates containing mainly low-molecular-weight pectin oligomers. Gel permeation chromatography was used to determined the ratio of hydrolysis. The molecular weight of the pectin hydrolysates obtained varied between 200 and 2,700 Da. The two newly developed low-molecular-weight pectin hydrolysates, LMPH A and B, had higher anti-oxidative activities than pectin or D-galacturonic. Exposure to UVB radiation induces apoptotic cell death in epidermal cells. Annexin V binding and propidium iodide uptake were measured by flow cytometry to evaluate UVB-induced cell death in HaCaT cells. Both LMPH A and B reduced UVB-induced cell death and increased cell proliferation by 22% and 30% at 0.5% concentration respectively, while pectin had no significant activity. In conclusion, this study suggests that the newly developed low-molecular-weight pectin hydrolysates can be used as safe and biologically active cosmetic ingredients.

Key Words

pectin, enzymatic hydrolysis, UVB, photo-damage

고아라 Ara Koh , 최송이 Songie Choi , 김용웅 Yong-ung Kim , 박건혁 Gunhyuk Park

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Abstract

Skin damage is mainly caused by environmental factors such as ultraviolet light, heat, and smoking. It is known that reactive oxygen species production is commonly involved in the pathogenesis of skin damage induced by these factors, causing skin aging. Pyrus pyrifolia Nakai continues to be a popular and highly consumed fruit in many countries with known beneficial effects including antitumor, antioxidative, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, there is no evidence of a therapeutic effect of Pyrus pyrifolia extract (PPE) against skin aging via inhibition of mitochondria-mediated apoptosis. In this study, we investigated PPE protective effect against photoaging induced by UVB (50 mJ/cm2) in HS68 human dermal fibroblasts. Lactate dehydrogenase assay showed that PPE significantly protected HS68 cells against UVB-induced damage in a dose-dependent manner. Other assays using DCF-DA demonstrated that PPE protected HS68 cells by regulating reactive oxygen species production. PPE also regulated mitochondrial dysfunction and mitochondrial membrane potential induced by UVB, and inhibited UVB-induced caspase-3 activity. These results indicate that PPE protects human dermal fibroblasts from UVB-induced damage by regulating the oxidative defense system.

Key Words

Pyrus pyrifolia leaf, dermal fibroblasts cell, antioxidant, mitochondria, antiapoptosis

김도윤 Do Yoon Kim , 황대일 Dae Il Hwang , 윤미소 Mi-so Yoon , 최인호 In Ho Choi , 이환명 Hwan Myung Lee

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Abstract

In the present study, we extracted the hydrosol from flower of Chrysanthemum boreale Makino (CBMF hydrosol) by steam distillation and tested the effect of the CBMF hydrosol on skin regeneration using normal human keratinocytes (HaCaTs). CBMF hydrosol induced proliferation as well as migration in HaCaTs in a dose-dependent manner. Treatment with 1 μg/mL CBMF hydrosol increased proliferation to 143.71 ± 3.37% and migration to 139.98 ± 5.72% compared with a control group. CBMF hydrosol also significantly enhanced the phosphorylations of extracellular signal- regulated kinase (Erk) 1/2 and serine/threonine-specific protein kinase (Akt) in HaCaTs. Moreover, CBMF hydrosol dose-dependently induced sprout outgrowth in HaCaTs. These results demonstrate that CBMF hydrosol has skin regeneration and wound healing activity in HaCaTs. Therefore, CBMF hydrosol could be used as a potential cosmetic material.

Key Words

Chrysanthemum boreale Makino, keratinocyte, proliferation, migration, skin regeneration